Every morning as I pass the same ox-cart carrying milk to the cheese factory and notice that Hotel Colonial has the same special for dinner posted (chicken, in case you're wondering), I can't help but think of the opening song from Disney's "Beauty and the Beast":
There goes the baker with his bread tray, always the same old bread and rolls to sell.
Every morning just the same,
since the morning that we came,
to this poor, provincial town..."
Of course, Monteverde is not poor, although certainly provincial, and I do not yet find the life here tedious, rather charming and comforting. There is a surprising amount to do here too- tonight is the music and poetry festival at a local bar/performance space. There will be Costan Rican poets, a visiting poet from South Korea, and music by some of my students!
On an unrelated note, the rainy season is upon us. The mornings are clear, hot, and sunny and then the rain pours and pours in the afternoon. We've already had a healthy dose of real thunderstorms. Of course, this means that the scorpion count is down. I have no idea why, I can only hope that they've drowned. I'm so cruel.
Thursday, April 29, 2010
Monday, April 26, 2010
This has nothing to do with Costa Rica..
My cousin, Bill, was just notimated for an Outer Critics Circle Award: check out the class of actor he's in! Pretty incredible! I'm really proud!
Outstanding Actor in a Play
Bill Heck The Orphans' Home Cycle
Jude Law Hamlet
Live Schreiber A View from the Bridge
Christopher Walken A Behanding in Spokane
Denzel Washington Fences
More Monkey Business!
Yesterday, the monkeys clearly woke-up and said, "Let's go to the human exhibit today." Our bedroom (which really is basically a tree-house) was surrounded by monkeys pearing in the windows, pacing the balcony, and sometimes even tapping the glass! Everyone who's been to the zoo knows you're not suppossed to tap the glass! I've been fortunate to spend a significant amount of time in my life around monkeys and babboons (mostly in Africa) and I think that they never stop being facsinating. We loved watching their little facial expressions and swinging antics; however, when one barred his teath and started heading for the door, Rob sugested that we lock it, because we're not sure what their oppossable thumbs are capable of :-)
I've noticed that my "recoil in horror" time at creepy-crawlers has definitely shortened. Don't get me wrong, I do not like the flying roaches, spiders as big as my hand, tarantula wasps, or scorpions, all of whom occasionally find their way into our kitchen. However, when confronted with a hairy spider who I swear looks like it could start talking at any minute, my recovery time is faster than it would have been under similar conditions in New York or Berkeley, and I find myself calming returning to dinner. I've been joking with Rob that he's killed or shooed away so many bugs, that when we get back to the states, he might miss it. I have a vision of him outside at my grandma's house in Wisconsin, seeking the spiders out.
The best thing about jungle life (technically cloud forest life, I still don't know if jungle is a technical ecosystem word or an umbrella term), is the smell. Even though the thick humidity can be exhausting and the sun relentless (only some days), the fresh smell of earth and properly decaying vegetation is wonderful. Sometimes, the monkey poo smell is overpowering, but most of the time, como la vida, la aire es pura aqui.
Speaking of Spanish, we have become dilligent about practicing our flashcards during dinner and I can now carry-on effective conversations with the woman in the store and the man in the bakery. I'm sure I'm saying things like, "Me forgetting to make plantains, how you to make plantains?" but everyone's very patient and I love practicing.
I've noticed that my "recoil in horror" time at creepy-crawlers has definitely shortened. Don't get me wrong, I do not like the flying roaches, spiders as big as my hand, tarantula wasps, or scorpions, all of whom occasionally find their way into our kitchen. However, when confronted with a hairy spider who I swear looks like it could start talking at any minute, my recovery time is faster than it would have been under similar conditions in New York or Berkeley, and I find myself calming returning to dinner. I've been joking with Rob that he's killed or shooed away so many bugs, that when we get back to the states, he might miss it. I have a vision of him outside at my grandma's house in Wisconsin, seeking the spiders out.
The best thing about jungle life (technically cloud forest life, I still don't know if jungle is a technical ecosystem word or an umbrella term), is the smell. Even though the thick humidity can be exhausting and the sun relentless (only some days), the fresh smell of earth and properly decaying vegetation is wonderful. Sometimes, the monkey poo smell is overpowering, but most of the time, como la vida, la aire es pura aqui.
Speaking of Spanish, we have become dilligent about practicing our flashcards during dinner and I can now carry-on effective conversations with the woman in the store and the man in the bakery. I'm sure I'm saying things like, "Me forgetting to make plantains, how you to make plantains?" but everyone's very patient and I love practicing.
Friday, April 23, 2010
I accidently took a bath with a scorpion!
I am not remotely amused by this situation, but Rob thinks it's hysterical. In fact, all day, he's been periodically chuckling to himself. I went into the tub to wash my feet and armpits (we're getting creative with using the shower-less bath-tub instead of walking over to the cassita-guesthouse- to shower or using the shower that still has a bat), washed, and calmy got out. Rob then noticed that a scorpion had been behind me in the tub the whole time!! There's a good chance I'm not washing again.... Just kidding, but I'm not happy about this.
April 23 Scorpion Count- Day 18- 32 Scorpions- Average of 1.7/day
April 23 Scorpion Count- Day 18- 32 Scorpions- Average of 1.7/day
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
Cheeky Monkeys!
A troupe came through yesterday, while we were out. They smashed an outdoor light, knocked some rubber boots off the balcony, and used our stairs as a toilet.... They weren't seeming so cute yesterday....
We're progressing in our Spanish; Rob is labelling every object in the house with its spanish name.
Scorpion count- still only 22..... Knock on wood :-)
We're progressing in our Spanish; Rob is labelling every object in the house with its spanish name.
Scorpion count- still only 22..... Knock on wood :-)
Monday, April 19, 2010
Las Fiestas!
This past week-end was Las Fiestas in St. Elana. It's akin to a state fair and apparantly they happen all over the country. It was very fun to check out; I definitely did not ride the spinning ferris wheel, and I definitely did eat delicious meat on a stick. The highlight was watching the "torros," bull-riding. One slightly dangerous custom is that anyone who wants to can get in the center and get chased by the bull, after the bull bucks the professional rider. The ring was populated by a healthy mix of tipsy ticos and possibly naive turistos. The atmosphere was friendly and spirited, but I did feel bad for the bull and am not sure what I think about the ethics of it all. Maybe I'll bring this up this week in Philosophy class. The non-highlight was that the pulsing salsa disco beat reverberated down through the jungle and made us feel, for one week-end only, that we were back sleeping in a city :)
Scorpion Count- 25 (on day 13, our average has now dropped to fewer than 2/day)
Scorpion Count- 25 (on day 13, our average has now dropped to fewer than 2/day)
Saturday, April 17, 2010
My new haristyling product of choice is sunscreen.
I put a little in my hands and rub it all over my scalp for maximum protection. It creates an awesome greasy/volumized look. There's also a good chance that one day a wasp is going to make a nest in my hair. I didn't need the sunscreen today because we experienced our first long rain- not hard, but we did get wet walking back from the Farmer's Market :-)
In case you're wondering- scorpion count is at 22.
In case you're wondering- scorpion count is at 22.
Friday, April 16, 2010
5:45am Wake-Up Call
We've been waking up pretty early here, somewhere around 6:00 or 6:30. In part, this is because the culture here is definitely on the early side and in part because when the jungle wakes up around you, it sort of wakes you up, this morning in particular. At 5:45am we were awoken by people having a dance party on our roof. It turned out to be an entire troop of monkeys hurrying along, shoving bugs and leaves in their mouths for breakfast as they went. It was so cool! There were at least 50 monkeys who came racing through the trees, paused to stare at us through the windows, and then skipped along the roof and away. Our bedroom is on the second floor, so we certainly feel as if we're up in the trees and the monkeys did pause on the branches outside to check us out :-)
Now, for my thoughts on community. I have never been part of such a strong village community. My community at TBS was strong in certain ways, but that was a workplace, not an entire living experience. Similarly, I've had communities in Bryn Mawr, Cape Town, and New York, but the entire town never felt like a cohesive community. I think that my parents have found a pretty strong, cohesive community in Galena, IL, but Monteverde is certainly my first, first- hand experience of this. And, at the risk of angering everyone and their loyalty to their communities, I would venture to say that Monteverde's sense of community is especially strong. Granted, I think in large part it is because this is a tiny town; naturally, the larger a community grows, the less cohesive it can be.
The map that the school gave us of town does not have any street or road names, rather it has the houses of everyone marked on it. Seriously. Also, addresses here are "50 meters south of the Cheese Factory" or, our address, "the end of the Bajo del Tigre." Everywhere we go, literally everywhere, people introduce themselves and engage us in conversation. No one is in too much of a hurry to have a real conversation. One of our neighbors invited us over for coffee three days after we arrived, and another was not at all unnerved when we knocked on her door, introduced ourselves, and asked to borrow her phone because we'd locked ourselves out. We've been invited to join soccer clubs, music ensembles, and potlucks. Yes, a cynic may say that this tiny town is just happy to have new blood to mix it up a bit; I do think that's part of it, there's an eagerness to have new experiences and ideas when new people come to town, but it's also the atmosphere here, one of true welcoming.
There is a fluidity here- gringo families come and go after a year or two and students stay in tico homes for their semester abroads. However, there are many people who spend their lives here and everyone seems to have a sense of "community archeology," who lived where, when, for how long, where they went, etc. And, of course, I'm sure there are downsides to everyone being somewhat intimately involved; I've only been here two weeks and can imagine that everyone knowing your business can sometimes get dreary.... But it was very helpful to have people tell us the history of the cat that has, for better or for worse, become our outdoor pet. What I love most is that no one can be dismissive here (not that anyone wants to be), your cab driver or garbage man or local restaurant owner or yoga teacher, is likely to be the parent of one of your students, or a neighbor; everyone is connected and everyone treats everyone else with respect. I really feel like this is a place where everyone is "seen."
Now, for my thoughts on community. I have never been part of such a strong village community. My community at TBS was strong in certain ways, but that was a workplace, not an entire living experience. Similarly, I've had communities in Bryn Mawr, Cape Town, and New York, but the entire town never felt like a cohesive community. I think that my parents have found a pretty strong, cohesive community in Galena, IL, but Monteverde is certainly my first, first- hand experience of this. And, at the risk of angering everyone and their loyalty to their communities, I would venture to say that Monteverde's sense of community is especially strong. Granted, I think in large part it is because this is a tiny town; naturally, the larger a community grows, the less cohesive it can be.
The map that the school gave us of town does not have any street or road names, rather it has the houses of everyone marked on it. Seriously. Also, addresses here are "50 meters south of the Cheese Factory" or, our address, "the end of the Bajo del Tigre." Everywhere we go, literally everywhere, people introduce themselves and engage us in conversation. No one is in too much of a hurry to have a real conversation. One of our neighbors invited us over for coffee three days after we arrived, and another was not at all unnerved when we knocked on her door, introduced ourselves, and asked to borrow her phone because we'd locked ourselves out. We've been invited to join soccer clubs, music ensembles, and potlucks. Yes, a cynic may say that this tiny town is just happy to have new blood to mix it up a bit; I do think that's part of it, there's an eagerness to have new experiences and ideas when new people come to town, but it's also the atmosphere here, one of true welcoming.
There is a fluidity here- gringo families come and go after a year or two and students stay in tico homes for their semester abroads. However, there are many people who spend their lives here and everyone seems to have a sense of "community archeology," who lived where, when, for how long, where they went, etc. And, of course, I'm sure there are downsides to everyone being somewhat intimately involved; I've only been here two weeks and can imagine that everyone knowing your business can sometimes get dreary.... But it was very helpful to have people tell us the history of the cat that has, for better or for worse, become our outdoor pet. What I love most is that no one can be dismissive here (not that anyone wants to be), your cab driver or garbage man or local restaurant owner or yoga teacher, is likely to be the parent of one of your students, or a neighbor; everyone is connected and everyone treats everyone else with respect. I really feel like this is a place where everyone is "seen."
Wednesday, April 14, 2010
Shock Mode
If you poke or scare many of the beetles here, they curl up and freeze, Rob and I call this "shock mode." Sometimes I joke that seeing too many spiders and scorpions causes me to go into shock mode, but our Spanish teacher (we had our first class yesterday!) brought up an excellent point: We spent the first part of the class learning the names for insects in Spanish, since that is clearly what we are obsessed with these days (and to think, 2 short weeks ago I never, ever thought about scorpions). Then, towards the end of class, Rob and I started sharing with Marcielos how much we are enjoying the incredible fruit here. And, it's true that every time I bite into a mango literally overflowing with flavor, or a banana that has layers of taste unheard of in the states, I think of my mom's one snobby comment of her life, "I just can't eat melon at home after having eaten it on the Nile." Anyway, our teacher made a wonderful point about life in the tropics, "You can't have the marvelous fruit without the crazy insects." And crazy insects continue to abound. This morning our front door had a truly reptilian bug, about five inches long, poking its dinosaur legs at passing moths.
On a totally different note, I taught me first Philosophy class to the 7th/8th graders today and it was quite an exercise in self-awareness. The students were wonderful, and just as my TBS students did, they shared poignant insights and probing questions. However, I became immediately aware that I was suddenly teaching in a country that I know almost nothing about. In the US when I'm teaching, I can rattle off side facts to my students about laws, history, and culture- the normal accumulation of information of being educated and living in the US. Here, in CR, I don't even know when women got the right to vote! Clearly, I need to do some serious reading on CR history, but more than that it is delightfully awkward to realize that my students and I have completely different cultural backgrounds and references. I can't assume anything! It is a little scary and totally incredible, because I have to be mindful of everything I say and do. I definitely feel like my yoga practice is spilling over into my "real" life here.....
Final note, it is awesome how truly bilingual MFS is. Every message in Meeting, every announcement at faculty meetings, is translated into whichever language it was not originally delivered in. The students prattle on, effortlessly switching from one language to another, and Ticos are so open to my fumbling attempts to learn Spanish.
My next post will definitely be on community.
On a totally different note, I taught me first Philosophy class to the 7th/8th graders today and it was quite an exercise in self-awareness. The students were wonderful, and just as my TBS students did, they shared poignant insights and probing questions. However, I became immediately aware that I was suddenly teaching in a country that I know almost nothing about. In the US when I'm teaching, I can rattle off side facts to my students about laws, history, and culture- the normal accumulation of information of being educated and living in the US. Here, in CR, I don't even know when women got the right to vote! Clearly, I need to do some serious reading on CR history, but more than that it is delightfully awkward to realize that my students and I have completely different cultural backgrounds and references. I can't assume anything! It is a little scary and totally incredible, because I have to be mindful of everything I say and do. I definitely feel like my yoga practice is spilling over into my "real" life here.....
Final note, it is awesome how truly bilingual MFS is. Every message in Meeting, every announcement at faculty meetings, is translated into whichever language it was not originally delivered in. The students prattle on, effortlessly switching from one language to another, and Ticos are so open to my fumbling attempts to learn Spanish.
My next post will definitely be on community.
Monday, April 12, 2010
No Scorpions Last Night....
We'll see how long that lasts and I promise I won't only write about scorpions. I do sort of feel like I've been unknowingly placed into an immersion therapy course to eradicate my debilitating fear of all things creepy/crawly. It's been a life-long struggle (just ask my dad and brother who had to often check the shower for spiders when I was growing up, before I'd get near it) and maybe 30 is the year that I'll conquer it!
I promise to upload pictures soon because the 16k hike that we went on yesterday was literally breathtaking. It was the school's (Monteverde Friends School) annual fundraising walk and it was a great way to talk to so many different people in the community. A very common story seems to be people who came down here for a few months and then stayed for years.... I'm not quite there yet. I'm definitely in awe of my surroundings and loving my daily 15 minute walk through the jungle at a perfect 70 degrees to get to school, but..... Part of the love I feel for this experience is knowing that in a few months I'll return to the cafes, art museums, and bustling streets of New York and/or San Francisco. I know, it makes me a little pathetic, but I think that at heart I'm a city girl who relishes the occasional camping adventure.
do So, the walk. We hiked uphill through the tiny towns and lush farms of the Monteverde zoneuntil we reached a lookout high in the Santa Elena Could Forest Reserve. On a clear day you can see the Arenal Volcano, but yesterday was not a clear day. The mist came rolling in and I reallylove the mist rolling in. It's a lot like the fog rolling in in Berkeley and quite lovely. Everywhere you look is saturated with green and everything smells fresh. Sometimes Rob and I have to remind ourselves that we live in a jungle, which is pretty hilarious, like when there are bugs with glow-in-the-dark eyes and huge, indigo Morpho butterflys right outside our door. Andthe birds that just hang out in the backyard are huge and decked out quite flamboyantly. I'm going to get a good bird book soon and identify them all. We also discovered my favorite insecthanging out next to our bowls-he looked exactly like a leaf with tiny legs and antenae (spelling?). Exactlylike a leaf.
Last thing for this LONG post- we went to our first Quaker Meeting yesterday which was a moving and calming experience. A few messages were shared and the room was filled with a sense of shared energy. This really is a strong, warm, welcoming community. I will have more thoughts on community for my next blog. Smiley Face.
I promise to upload pictures soon because the 16k hike that we went on yesterday was literally breathtaking. It was the school's (Monteverde Friends School) annual fundraising walk and it was a great way to talk to so many different people in the community. A very common story seems to be people who came down here for a few months and then stayed for years.... I'm not quite there yet. I'm definitely in awe of my surroundings and loving my daily 15 minute walk through the jungle at a perfect 70 degrees to get to school, but..... Part of the love I feel for this experience is knowing that in a few months I'll return to the cafes, art museums, and bustling streets of New York and/or San Francisco. I know, it makes me a little pathetic, but I think that at heart I'm a city girl who relishes the occasional camping adventure.
do So, the walk. We hiked uphill through the tiny towns and lush farms of the Monteverde zoneuntil we reached a lookout high in the Santa Elena Could Forest Reserve. On a clear day you can see the Arenal Volcano, but yesterday was not a clear day. The mist came rolling in and I reallylove the mist rolling in. It's a lot like the fog rolling in in Berkeley and quite lovely. Everywhere you look is saturated with green and everything smells fresh. Sometimes Rob and I have to remind ourselves that we live in a jungle, which is pretty hilarious, like when there are bugs with glow-in-the-dark eyes and huge, indigo Morpho butterflys right outside our door. Andthe birds that just hang out in the backyard are huge and decked out quite flamboyantly. I'm going to get a good bird book soon and identify them all. We also discovered my favorite insecthanging out next to our bowls-he looked exactly like a leaf with tiny legs and antenae (spelling?). Exactlylike a leaf.
Last thing for this LONG post- we went to our first Quaker Meeting yesterday which was a moving and calming experience. A few messages were shared and the room was filled with a sense of shared energy. This really is a strong, warm, welcoming community. I will have more thoughts on community for my next blog. Smiley Face.
Sunday, April 11, 2010
The Scorpion is NOT my Sprit Animal
We've found 13 so far. But, I think that we've finally figured out how to keep them away.... Door flaps on all the doors and foot powder (apparently they find it gross). I'm in a hurry but will write more tomorrow, including details on the amazing 16k hike we went on yesterday.
Pura Vida!
Pura Vida!
Thursday, April 8, 2010
4.8.10 Scorpion Death Count in House
8.... probably more tonight. We just went to the Monteverde Cheese Factory and had ice cream. I enjoyed the chocolate, but not the pineapple orange, I miss Ciao Bella a little..... But we did have delicious tamales for lunch and went with the 3rd and 4th graders on their farm skills class today- amazing walk through farms and jungles ended in a delightful garden in a local dairy farmer's backyard. The kids planted fig trees, worked the worm compost, and swung (is that a word?) on the rope swing. Fun.
4.8.10 Day Three in Costa Rica
Hi Everyone! This blog is primarily aimed at my TBS students, who I already miss very much. I want to be able to keep them updated, and yes, in the not too distant future I'll figure out how to post pictures. I also LOVE all the homework and writing that you're sending my way. My internet availability is not too great, so I may take one or two weeks to respond, but I will respond and I am truly relishing reading your work. Feel free to post on the blog (or not) and email me whenever you'd like (or not)!
This was the mass email I sent out yesterday,
It´s our second day here and we´ve stopped in at an internet cafe during our lovely walk exploring the ins and outs of this amazing mountain town. It´s kind of awesome to feel like I´m ¨back¨in the days of traveling through Africa (I want to put a semi colon here but can not figure out the punctuation on this computer. I am such a gringa right now!) Instead of compulsively checking my iPhone every 20 minutes, I am back to checking email every three days or so. Insert smiley face. We had a bit of culture shock last night when we realized that in the span of two weeks we moved out of our Berkeley home, visited many friends and family on the East Coast, and then suddenly ended up in a Central American jungle. It´s been a true blur: I might be in a state of mild shock.....Insert another smiley face. We´ve found (and Rob has killed) five scorpions so far, and there is a small bat living in one of our showers. Fortunately, there is another shower so we have a few days to figure out what to do about our little friend. We also watched a tarantula thoughtfully explore the front porch last night. However, we are very excited to become part of a new culture and community, if only for three months. The house is wonderful, there is nothing better than going to sleep with the sounds of the jungle literally outside our bedroom. And, we can not walk five steps in this town without meeting another super nice and helpful person. It is pretty astonishing here: we are literally steps from several famously diverse bio reserves and many hiking trails. I am very excited to explore the jungle via foot, horseback, and zip line. Insert final smiley face.
This was the mass email I sent out yesterday,
It´s our second day here and we´ve stopped in at an internet cafe during our lovely walk exploring the ins and outs of this amazing mountain town. It´s kind of awesome to feel like I´m ¨back¨in the days of traveling through Africa (I want to put a semi colon here but can not figure out the punctuation on this computer. I am such a gringa right now!) Instead of compulsively checking my iPhone every 20 minutes, I am back to checking email every three days or so. Insert smiley face. We had a bit of culture shock last night when we realized that in the span of two weeks we moved out of our Berkeley home, visited many friends and family on the East Coast, and then suddenly ended up in a Central American jungle. It´s been a true blur: I might be in a state of mild shock.....Insert another smiley face. We´ve found (and Rob has killed) five scorpions so far, and there is a small bat living in one of our showers. Fortunately, there is another shower so we have a few days to figure out what to do about our little friend. We also watched a tarantula thoughtfully explore the front porch last night. However, we are very excited to become part of a new culture and community, if only for three months. The house is wonderful, there is nothing better than going to sleep with the sounds of the jungle literally outside our bedroom. And, we can not walk five steps in this town without meeting another super nice and helpful person. It is pretty astonishing here: we are literally steps from several famously diverse bio reserves and many hiking trails. I am very excited to explore the jungle via foot, horseback, and zip line. Insert final smiley face.
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