Thursday, May 13, 2010

Tilting at Windmills in Tilaran

We spent a truly lovely week end with Mara in the Tilaran, Guanacaste area (roughly two hours north of Monteverde). Driving from Monteverde to Tilaran is a true feast for the eyes, miles and miles of rolling green pastures and panoramic views. The cows, the small villages, and the expansive blue skys are reminiscent, in ways, of places in Ireland, Illinois, and, I imagine, Cervante's own Basque country. We knew that we were approaching Tilaran because of the industrial windwills dotting the hills, and once there, we could feel the wind. It's a new level of wind in my life. Relentless and forceful, but somehow not over-powering. Gaunacaste is a notoriously hot province and you can certainly feel the heat underneath the wind, and then become grateful for the wind for alleviating some of that heat.

Costa Rica is a leader in renewable energy and the massive power provided by this wind is not only very important, but should serve as a harbinger for all those annoying gringos in the US who don't want their Martha's Vineyard and Idaho views "ruined." I have to say, Tilaran is beautiful. Shocking green everywhere sloping down to the expanse of Lake Arenal where the water is whipped (by the wind, of course) into constant tiny, white peaks. And, the windmills just add to the beauty. Mara took us on her daily walk/run from her days living in Parcelles during the Peace Corps and we strolled directly under the giant, rhythmic machines that are not at all offensive or too loud.

We spent a fun night with her host family who were amazingly welcoming and shared LOTS of delicious food and everyone was patient with our halting Spanish. We then spent a night at the house of a friend of Mara's who has an amazing picture window taking in Lake Arenal and the volcano. After a bumpy, but picture-postcard, bus ride back to Monteverde, we hosted Mara for a few days. She did not have any white-faced monkey visitors at her windows (they've been scarce lately), but we did get to see the endangered Spider Monkeys on our Cloud Forest Reserve Tour. They are the largest monkeys in Costa Rica and endangered because they can only survive off of the vegetation from primary forests. As deforestation continues, they are forced to move into secondary forests and without certain nutrients, are developing osteoporosis. And you can imagine how successful a swinging monkey is with brittle bones... We also were lucky to see the famous Resplendent Quetzel, which is as magical and multi-colored as all the guide books say.

Pura Vida!

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